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Q&A: Carlo Coxon - owner and chef of Edinburgh's Grain Store restaurant on expensive truffles



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Published Date: 02 December 2008
The owner and chef of the Grain Store restaurant in Edinburgh on news that a Hong Kong businessman has paid £130,000 for a single white truffle at an auction in Rome.
Why have white truffles been in the news?

Truffles are often in the news at this time of year. The prime season for truffle hunting is the autumn, when they are found in the forests of northern Italy by trained pigs or dogs. The b
est ones come from the Piedmont region. Before the winter frosts come in, they hold an auction of the biggest ones found.

Why are they so expensive?

It is like Beluga caviar or vintage champagne: it is the cream of the crop, which is why they call it white gold. There's a lot of prestige in buying one of these big truffles. It's a status symbol, like a Porsche or a Ferrari. Something of this size is really rare; you might get one or two really big ones a year.

What do they taste like?

It is a very intense flavour. It is mushroomy, but very fragrant with a very pervasive perfume. If you put a piece of truffle in an egg box with five eggs, then the eggs will take on the flavour of the truffle. They are known as truffled eggs.

What else can you do with a giant white truffle?

Gordon Ramsay bought one of these huge truffles a couple of years ago and served it on a pizza. The pieces of raw truffle were shaved on to the pizza at the table.

How soon will the buyer, Mr Ho, have to eat his truffle?

A fresh truffle will keep for a week in the fridge, but no longer than that. Four years ago, there was a famous case where a top chef at a London restaurant kept one for too long and it rotted away.

Do you ever use truffles in your restaurant?

I do sometimes use truffles or truffle oil. You can make a really good leek and truffle risotto, and it is great with lobster. It is also great shaved on to foie gras. If you want the full intense flavour of a white truffle, it is best to serve it raw.





The full article contains 389 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
Page 1 of 1

  • Last Updated: 01 December 2008 10:33 PM
  • Source: The Scotsman
  • Location: Edinburgh
 
 

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